Category Archives: Vacation

Welcome to the Pearl of the Black Beetle, I mean Sea…..

After arriving at my hotel, the Palladium, check in was smooth, the staff helpful, and I was ready for bed. After midnight, and the city was quiet. The hotel was clean, and after carrying my bag up the stairs to the second floor, found my room close to the stairs, and I was ready to pass out for 12 hours.

Palladium hotel

Small problem though, before I could go to sleep, I had to close the windows, and kill all the small black beetles that enjoy the light outside the building, that came in to my room with the same idea I had. They were probably looking for a good night sleep too! They didn’t come in during the day, but at night they were more than happy to visit. It only took me about 10 minutes, but I killed more than 30 of them. No screens on the windows, and the weather was hot, so the windows of all the unoccupied rooms were left open. But, that was a minor inconvenience, and off to dreamland I went. I dont know about many other hotels, but if you go to Odessa in the summer, it might not be a bad idea to pack a flyswatter, I used a shoe, and made a few nasty squished bug marks on the walls….

Tomorrow, we’ll find some history!

First Impressions….

After a 16 hour flight, just about anyone is more than ready to get off the airplane, I was no exception.

 

 

 

 

 

Clearing customs in Odessa was a breeze, especially since we were the last flight to land that night.

We arrived about 10 p.m., and after a 15 minute bus ride to the terminal, we walked right up to the Customs officers in their booths.  Clearing through these guys went quick and easy, but for a Westerner, having never been through an Eastern European airport, it was a bit different.

Firstly, I guess I wasn’t quite ready for the camouflaged fatigues and AK-74’s at the gate. (Yes, I looked closely and asked what model it was…..) I don’t know if the Ukrainian army controls customs and immigration, but it certainly looked that way. Intellectually, I knew I would probably see the guards and guns, but as an American who grew up and served in the Army during the Cold War, this was a bit of a wake up.

However, the guards, and the airline employees, and in fact, everyone I came across, was friendly and helpful. Smiling and trying to show off their English language skills, they tried to understand my smattering of Russian, and figure out what I wanted.

The airport itself was about what I expected. Concrete block buildings, with governmental looking chairs, and desks, and looked like it hadn’t been painted in quite a while.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI knew that after the breakup of the Soviet Union the economy in Ukraine hadn’t been too robust, and with the recent military actions in the east, and conflicts with Russia, there would not be much money for improvements to government buildings for some time. But, I wasn’t there to tour airports…..

I’ll tell you about the ride in from the airport in my next report…..

Beautiful Tropical Ukraine????

Yes, Beautiful Tropical Ukraine!! Odessa is known as the pearl of the Black Sea, and it deserves its moniker…

While it is more than a little distance from my normal Tropical vacations, Odessa, Ukraine, actually is quite a tropical location. Palm trees, warm breezes off the warm Black Sea waters, and skimpy bathing gear as far as the eye can see. No wonder all the Leaders and Ranking Military of the USSR had their Dachas here….

Why Ukraine? Firstly, because I’d never been there. Never even been that side of the “Pond”, as the British put it. It is something new that I wanted to see. Second, I like to combine my love of the tropics with another love of mine, History. Yes, that capitol H is intentional. I enjoy seeing, reading, and being historical. (Some friends might change that spelling to hysterical, but that is another story altogether.

Here in the US, we have some History, but most of it is not much more than 250 years old. Ukraine has churches that are a thousand years old. The catacombs under Odessa are older than that.

So, a good place to go if you like History.

Before I set out, I thought I should do my best to try to learn at least some of the local language. At least how to find a restaurant, or even a bathroom. What I found after arriving is that the worst part of visiting Ukraine isn’t any difficulty communicating. The people are friendly,  and if you have any Russian language skills at all, (can you say Da? ) they will nearly fall over themselves trying to show you their English skills, (whether they have any or not!! )  🙂

As I live on the west coast of the US, the flight was long. Very long. I didn’t want to spend too much of my vacation on a plane so I paid for a one stop flight, with as short a layover as I could get. In so doing, I also had to take off from a Major international airport. (For some reason we don’t have many international departures at the airport here in southern Oregon.) So, I drove to San Francisco. I could have paid for a flight to get there in just over an hour, but I figured I would save money and have more to spend when I got to Ukraine. (Note to self: Next time calculate parking fee!!) The parking fee for the 10 days I left my truck at SFO would have covered the flight from home to San Fran……

At least my first flight was only 16 hours. From SFO to Istanbul, Turkey. Then a short layover, and a hop to Odessa. Total travel time, just  under 20 hours. Not too bad for a trip just about halfway around the world. And I flew Turkish Air. I didn’t even know there was a Turkish airlines, but the service was good, the seats comfortable, and lots of movies and games on the seatback video console for entertainment.

Next? Finally arriving in Odessa…..

 

Jungle Tarpon Lodge, and they DO mean JUNGLE!!!

I had been dreaming of fishing the Caribbean, and catching a big Tarpon since I was a small boy.

At seven years old I got my first subscription to Field & Stream magazine, and had kept it by getting renewals for birthday presents until I was in my early twenties.  Adding such great magazines as Salt Water Fisherman, Fly Fishing, and In Fisherman rounded out my library throughout the years.

A Marlin Grand Slam is on my bucket list, as well as catching a bonefish on a fly, but what I really dreamed of was a big Tarpon. One hundred plus pounds of muscle, rocketing into the sky, shaking its head to try to throw the hook, hearing its gill plates rattling. That was a recurring dream throughout my teens and twenties. Then I moved to Montana. Go figure…….

But now I had my chance. Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast is famous for many things, including lots of big Tarpon. I booked my fishing trip online, at the Jungle Tarpon lodge. The reviews were great, lots of pictures of big fish, and the running commentary on fish recently caught nearly made me drool…..  But I still had to get there.

The lodge manager and guide, Angelo,  IMGP2706JunTarLodAngWebwould meet me at Cano Blanco, and take me the rest of the way by boat. The first 3  hours went just as planned, then I got to Siquerres, for the last 32 miles of my drive. Lets just say I was glad I was driving a rental.

After a LONG…. drive, I got to the docks. From here its a boat to the Lodge.  Jungle Tarpon Lodge….. as in deep in the….. About 20 more minutes with the throttle wide open, in a 20 foot center console Boston Whaler got us to the lodge.  Lunch was served, My room was ready, and I settled in. IMGP2697JunTarLodWebNot much else to do but fish. The ad was right. It is truly the JUNGLE Tarpon lodge. No tv, no wi-fi, no radio, Nada. Zip. Zilch. So, we went fishing!

And the fishing was GREAT!

More next time……..

 

The Road Less Traveled…..

After Baldi, I was ready for the next leg of my journey.

I’d be fishing the Caribbean, viewing some monkeys, toucans, crocodiles, and whatever else came my way.

I booked a 4 day stay at the Jungle Tarpon Lodge online. They would have picked me up in San Jose, but I wanted more time to see the country.

At Baldi, I was pretty close to halfway across the country between the Pacific and Caribbean, so I figured about 4 hours to get the rest of the way. Having already experienced the roads, I padded my travel time a little. Good thing!

The last 32 miles on road 806, were a dirt road. And it really isn’t the road less traveled, as I passed banana plantations for miles and miles, which send their product out on semi trucks. It was a well traveled road; it just looked like it was only maintained once a year. It took me over two hours to make the last stretch of this drive.

I got pretty good at dodging potholes myself, or my ride wouldn’t have gotten me back to San Jose for my flight home.

Have I mentioned the dust? No? Dust.IMG_2496

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The type of thick choking dust that slows you down to 5 miles an hour when you pass another car going the other way. The type of dust you don’t realize was making it into your car until you take a look at yourself in the rear view mirror and realize you look like you have been on a camel caravan in the Sahara desert. Yeah, that kind of dust….

I passed several villages on the way, and got smiles and waves from the people in all of the, just like I had throughout the country. Really friendly people, the Tico’s. Or maybe they were just laughing at the crazy gringo and pointing at what was happening to my new rental car. Who knows? I prefer to believe that they were the happy friendly folks I had seen throughout the country my entire trip.

Cano Blanco

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the end of the road was what looked like a fuel  farm. Gas  tanks, pumps,  parking, and a long wooden dock that sat right on one of the many canals, rivers, and streams that all lead to the sea.

I parked  and was thankful that Angelo, the lodge manager and guide, lived on Tico time. He knew it would take me a lot longer than I planned, because he grew up in one of the villages I passed on the road. He was waiting for me, with a cup of rich Costa Rican coffee in his hand when I pulled up, so we loaded up my gear in the boat, locked my rental car, and down the river we went.

Next up, Tarpon!!!

 

Baldi… Talk about relaxing!!!!

Next stop? Baldi Hot Springs Hotel and Spa.

 

Baldi's front entrance
Baldi’s front entrance

After a day spent walking through the jungle, and sliding on miles of cable, its only natural to want a little relaxation, right?

Baldi's spa
The Spa at Baldi

The truth is, I wasn’t sore, no aching muscles, no blisters, no sore feet, no problems at all. But, I had heard about this wonderful place called Baldi, right close to the Arenal volcano, that had natural hot springs, magnificent food, and luxurious appointments throughout. I wasn’t sure when I would be through there, but I knew I wanted to go, so I didn’t buy any tickets or make any reservations. It didn’t matter, When I showed up the desk clerk was helpful, the entire staff was incredibly friendly, and everything was far more lavish than I had ever imagined.

The springs get their heat and minerals from the Arenal volcano, which is a sight to see by itself. The higher you get in the resort, ( I’m talking elevation here folks….), the warmer the pools get.  Pools, as in plural, as in twenty-five of them. Incredible…

Each one has its own charm, and most have their own sort of water feature.

One of the hot springs waterfalls
One of the hot springs waterfalls

Waterfalls, a steam cave, (I could have stayed there all night), giant natural rock obelisks that were just….. right. The country on the whole is a giant nature conservatory, and Baldi might be the perfect poster child for it. Everything is built around what was there first.

Baldi's water slide
Baldi’s water slides

Its also a perfect place for a family trip. There are kids pools, water slides, a complete kids area, and security is very good so you don’t have to worry about staying and watching your children. There are also trails to hike, water toboggans, and you can book just about anything from Baldi.

For the “legal” travelers, there is also three wet bars, (yes, order while in the pool), two dry bars, and all the amenities you’d expect in a 5 star resort.

If you are traveling through Costa Rica, and need a “me” day, or want to spend an entire vacation there, Baldi is a place you should consider. You can buy a day pass, or stay in the hotel, and if you stay there, more pools are available.

All in all, I recommend this place highly for anybody that wants a place to “wind down” after a long day, or a long life. I know I felt like a wet noodle after my time there……

p.s. They aren’t really big on allowing cameras in, probably because not very many people like their picture taken in their swimsuits. All the photos here are stock photos they let me use…….

Next, Caribbean tarpon….

There’s No Place Like….Home?

So, after changing some money, (yes I made that mistake too…) and getting my rental car, a full size SUV, I headed out to find my hotel. I stayed the first night at the Hotel Aeropuerto. The place is amazing! If you are looking to find some REAL Costa Rica, not just a Holiday inn with a banana tree in the yard, I highly recommend the Airport Hotel. It’s not the easiest place to find, I’ll admit it. I drove past it twice before I realized where it was. It is in Alajuelo, and while I don’t know the crime statistics here, I would say that this is not the best neighborhood. Having said that though, when I pulled in, there was a gate blocking the driveway. The guard at the gate checked my reservation, and handed me a small plastic parking pass. It’s not to park, its for getting out. Apparently at one time there was a car stolen from here. That won’t happen again. I was told not to leave the pass in the car, to take it with me. My car would not be allowed to leave without it. A novel approach!!!

Once I got into the hotel, I was pleasantly amazed. Being the tropics, it rains. A lot. instead of trying to keep all the water out, the hotel lives with it, as its friendly neighbor. The floors are tile. The walls in the lobby are open, with a lofted ceiling. The people are VERY friendly. Everything was a wonderful surprise after my initial shock at the gate. The rooms are large, airy, air-conditioned, and comfortable. Right outside my window are a huge mango tree, and several banana or plantain tree.  To tell you the truth, I don’t know the  difference, but it was nice to have such a beautiful reminder that I’m in the tropics!

Next time, the restaurant at the Hotel Aeropuerto….

Over the edge, Over again…

Well, after what seemed like, and actually was, one hell of a long trip, I’m finally here. I wouldn’t advise anybody doing the trip from the Pacific Northwest to Costa Rica the same way I did unless you can sleep anywhere. Over 19 hours, more then half in airports, waiting for the connection. I’f I’d driven to Portland, I could have been here in 9. File that under things to remember……

Not completely used to the idea of Tico time. I expected to get my rental car at the airport, or at least be taken right to it. Once again, I have to remember that I’m not in the land of the Superstore. It took nearly half an hour to get to the office, and then found out that the insurance policy I bought won’t cover liability, only damage to the car itself. Since Costa Rica law requires liability insurance, and if you get in a wreck, they can, and sometimes do, refrain from letting you leave the country until it is completely taken care of, you really should pay whatever your insurance company wants to extend your coverage. I wish I did. My $205 dollar rental that seemed such a great deal turned into a $467 dollar deal. Not such a great deal anymore. But….if that is the worst thing that happens on this trip, I’m Golden!!!

By the way, don’t exchange your gringo dollars for colones at the airport money changers shops. The exchange rate when I arrived was 559 colones per dollar, and the airport shops are paying no more than 480 colones per dollar. Quite a racket!

Next time I’ll tell you about a great out of the way hotel and restaurant close to the airport…….

Here we go!

Well, the supplies are bought, catalogued, folded, spindled and mutilated, bags packed, lists made and printed in triplicate, passport copied, and its time to hit the road! The trip is to Costa Rica, but I’m traveling on my own. No tours, no guides, traveling without a net, so to speak. I looked at what Costa Rica has to offer, picked my favorite 4 or 5 things, and I’m hitting the road! Should be a real Kick in the Pants!

The plan includes fishing, diving, surfing, zip-lining, and a visit to Baldi Hot Springs; the biggest collection of hot spring pools I have ever heard of.

Baldi is twenty pools of varying size and temperature located on the side of a volcano, with water slides, hotel, and all manner of interesting and provocative food and activities.

Fishing will be on the Caribbean coast for Tarpon, with offshore trips in the morning, and river trips in the afternoons. A bonus will be the possibility of seeing a crocodile or two, possibly eating a fish I hook.

Surfing? Tamarindo. Beach break with soft sand, friendly people, and great food. No reef to get torn to shreds on, just a bit of sandblasting if I fall too often. Oh well, thats surfing! I haven’t been on a board for nearly forty years, so I’m taking a lesson the first thing when I get there.

The zip-lining will be in the form of a Canopy tour. According to their website, I will be taking 25 zip lines, with 11 of them going over waterfalls. I’ll also be doing the “Superman” zip line, where I lay out like I’m flying. I hope my videos come out!

Diving will be on an as available basis. Maybe Pacific coast, maybe Caribbean coast. I hope to get to the worlds second longest barrier reef, off the Caribbean coast of Central America, but if it should come up when I’m over at the Pacific? I’ll go there!

Should be a really interesting trip.

I decided to go it alone, because I want to get off the beaten path. I’m renting a car, driving myself, and hoping to find the adventure that I’m looking for, after too many trips with planned side trips, staged luau’s, and non-original performers. I’ll see the real country, eat the food wherever I find something that looks good, and meet the people that live there.

Stay tuned folks…it should be one hell of a ride!!!

Oso…..