After arriving at my hotel, the Palladium, check in was smooth, the staff helpful, and I was ready for bed. After midnight, and the city was quiet. The hotel was clean, and after carrying my bag up the stairs to the second floor, found my room close to the stairs, and I was ready to pass out for 12 hours.
Small problem though, before I could go to sleep, I had to close the windows, and kill all the small black beetles that enjoy the light outside the building, that came in to my room with the same idea I had. They were probably looking for a good night sleep too! They didn’t come in during the day, but at night they were more than happy to visit. It only took me about 10 minutes, but I killed more than 30 of them. No screens on the windows, and the weather was hot, so the windows of all the unoccupied rooms were left open. But, that was a minor inconvenience, and off to dreamland I went. I dont know about many other hotels, but if you go to Odessa in the summer, it might not be a bad idea to pack a flyswatter, I used a shoe, and made a few nasty squished bug marks on the walls….
After a 16 hour flight, just about anyone is more than ready to get off the airplane, I was no exception.
Clearing customs in Odessa was a breeze, especially since we were the last flight to land that night.
We arrived about 10 p.m., and after a 15 minute bus ride to the terminal, we walked right up to the Customs officers in their booths. Clearing through these guys went quick and easy, but for a Westerner, having never been through an Eastern European airport, it was a bit different.
Firstly, I guess I wasn’t quite ready for the camouflaged fatigues and AK-74’s at the gate. (Yes, I looked closely and asked what model it was…..) I don’t know if the Ukrainian army controls customs and immigration, but it certainly looked that way. Intellectually, I knew I would probably see the guards and guns, but as an American who grew up and served in the Army during the Cold War, this was a bit of a wake up.
However, the guards, and the airline employees, and in fact, everyone I came across, was friendly and helpful. Smiling and trying to show off their English language skills, they tried to understand my smattering of Russian, and figure out what I wanted.
The airport itself was about what I expected. Concrete block buildings, with governmental looking chairs, and desks, and looked like it hadn’t been painted in quite a while.
I knew that after the breakup of the Soviet Union the economy in Ukraine hadn’t been too robust, and with the recent military actions in the east, and conflicts with Russia, there would not be much money for improvements to government buildings for some time. But, I wasn’t there to tour airports…..
I’ll tell you about the ride in from the airport in my next report…..
Yes, Beautiful Tropical Ukraine!! Odessa is known as the pearl of the Black Sea, and it deserves its moniker…
While it is more than a little distance from my normal Tropical vacations, Odessa, Ukraine, actually is quite a tropical location. Palm trees, warm breezes off the warm Black Sea waters, and skimpy bathing gear as far as the eye can see. No wonder all the Leaders and Ranking Military of the USSR had their Dachas here….
Why Ukraine? Firstly, because I’d never been there. Never even been that side of the “Pond”, as the British put it. It is something new that I wanted to see. Second, I like to combine my love of the tropics with another love of mine, History. Yes, that capitol H is intentional. I enjoy seeing, reading, and being historical. (Some friends might change that spelling to hysterical, but that is another story altogether.
Here in the US, we have some History, but most of it is not much more than 250 years old. Ukraine has churches that are a thousand years old. The catacombs under Odessa are older than that.
So, a good place to go if you like History.
Before I set out, I thought I should do my best to try to learn at least some of the local language. At least how to find a restaurant, or even a bathroom. What I found after arriving is that the worst part of visiting Ukraine isn’t any difficulty communicating. The people are friendly, and if you have any Russian language skills at all, (can you say Da? ) they will nearly fall over themselves trying to show you their English skills, (whether they have any or not!! ) 🙂
As I live on the west coast of the US, the flight was long. Very long. I didn’t want to spend too much of my vacation on a plane so I paid for a one stop flight, with as short a layover as I could get. In so doing, I also had to take off from a Major international airport. (For some reason we don’t have many international departures at the airport here in southern Oregon.) So, I drove to San Francisco. I could have paid for a flight to get there in just over an hour, but I figured I would save money and have more to spend when I got to Ukraine. (Note to self: Next time calculate parking fee!!) The parking fee for the 10 days I left my truck at SFO would have covered the flight from home to San Fran……
At least my first flight was only 16 hours. From SFO to Istanbul, Turkey. Then a short layover, and a hop to Odessa. Total travel time, just under 20 hours. Not too bad for a trip just about halfway around the world. And I flew Turkish Air. I didn’t even know there was a Turkish airlines, but the service was good, the seats comfortable, and lots of movies and games on the seatback video console for entertainment.
I had been dreaming of fishing the Caribbean, and catching a big Tarpon since I was a small boy.
At seven years old I got my first subscription to Field & Stream magazine, and had kept it by getting renewals for birthday presents until I was in my early twenties. Adding such great magazines as Salt Water Fisherman, Fly Fishing, and In Fisherman rounded out my library throughout the years.
A Marlin Grand Slam is on my bucket list, as well as catching a bonefish on a fly, but what I really dreamed of was a big Tarpon. One hundred plus pounds of muscle, rocketing into the sky, shaking its head to try to throw the hook, hearing its gill plates rattling. That was a recurring dream throughout my teens and twenties. Then I moved to Montana. Go figure…….
But now I had my chance. Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast is famous for many things, including lots of big Tarpon. I booked my fishing trip online, at the Jungle Tarpon lodge. The reviews were great, lots of pictures of big fish, and the running commentary on fish recently caught nearly made me drool….. But I still had to get there.
The lodge manager and guide, Angelo, would meet me at Cano Blanco, and take me the rest of the way by boat. The first 3 hours went just as planned, then I got to Siquerres, for the last 32 miles of my drive. Lets just say I was glad I was driving a rental.
After a LONG…. drive, I got to the docks. From here its a boat to the Lodge. Jungle Tarpon Lodge….. as in deep in the….. About 20 more minutes with the throttle wide open, in a 20 foot center console Boston Whaler got us to the lodge. Lunch was served, My room was ready, and I settled in. Not much else to do but fish. The ad was right. It is truly the JUNGLE Tarpon lodge. No tv, no wi-fi, no radio, Nada. Zip. Zilch. So, we went fishing!
After Baldi, I was ready for the next leg of my journey.
I’d be fishing the Caribbean, viewing some monkeys, toucans, crocodiles, and whatever else came my way.
I booked a 4 day stay at the Jungle Tarpon Lodge online. They would have picked me up in San Jose, but I wanted more time to see the country.
At Baldi, I was pretty close to halfway across the country between the Pacific and Caribbean, so I figured about 4 hours to get the rest of the way. Having already experienced the roads, I padded my travel time a little. Good thing!
The last 32 miles on road 806, were a dirt road. And it really isn’t the road less traveled, as I passed banana plantations for miles and miles, which send their product out on semi trucks. It was a well traveled road; it just looked like it was only maintained once a year. It took me over two hours to make the last stretch of this drive.
I got pretty good at dodging potholes myself, or my ride wouldn’t have gotten me back to San Jose for my flight home.
Have I mentioned the dust? No? Dust.
The type of thick choking dust that slows you down to 5 miles an hour when you pass another car going the other way. The type of dust you don’t realize was making it into your car until you take a look at yourself in the rear view mirror and realize you look like you have been on a camel caravan in the Sahara desert. Yeah, that kind of dust….
I passed several villages on the way, and got smiles and waves from the people in all of the, just like I had throughout the country. Really friendly people, the Tico’s. Or maybe they were just laughing at the crazy gringo and pointing at what was happening to my new rental car. Who knows? I prefer to believe that they were the happy friendly folks I had seen throughout the country my entire trip.
At the end of the road was what looked like a fuel farm. Gas tanks, pumps, parking, and a long wooden dock that sat right on one of the many canals, rivers, and streams that all lead to the sea.
I parked and was thankful that Angelo, the lodge manager and guide, lived on Tico time. He knew it would take me a lot longer than I planned, because he grew up in one of the villages I passed on the road. He was waiting for me, with a cup of rich Costa Rican coffee in his hand when I pulled up, so we loaded up my gear in the boat, locked my rental car, and down the river we went.
After a day spent walking through the jungle, and sliding on miles of cable, its only natural to want a little relaxation, right?
The truth is, I wasn’t sore, no aching muscles, no blisters, no sore feet, no problems at all. But, I had heard about this wonderful place called Baldi, right close to the Arenal volcano, that had natural hot springs, magnificent food, and luxurious appointments throughout. I wasn’t sure when I would be through there, but I knew I wanted to go, so I didn’t buy any tickets or make any reservations. It didn’t matter, When I showed up the desk clerk was helpful, the entire staff was incredibly friendly, and everything was far more lavish than I had ever imagined.
The springs get their heat and minerals from the Arenal volcano, which is a sight to see by itself. The higher you get in the resort, ( I’m talking elevation here folks….), the warmer the pools get. Pools, as in plural, as in twenty-five of them. Incredible…
Each one has its own charm, and most have their own sort of water feature.
Waterfalls, a steam cave, (I could have stayed there all night), giant natural rock obelisks that were just….. right. The country on the whole is a giant nature conservatory, and Baldi might be the perfect poster child for it. Everything is built around what was there first.
Its also a perfect place for a family trip. There are kids pools, water slides, a complete kids area, and security is very good so you don’t have to worry about staying and watching your children. There are also trails to hike, water toboggans, and you can book just about anything from Baldi.
For the “legal” travelers, there is also three wet bars, (yes, order while in the pool), two dry bars, and all the amenities you’d expect in a 5 star resort.
If you are traveling through Costa Rica, and need a “me” day, or want to spend an entire vacation there, Baldi is a place you should consider. You can buy a day pass, or stay in the hotel, and if you stay there, more pools are available.
All in all, I recommend this place highly for anybody that wants a place to “wind down” after a long day, or a long life. I know I felt like a wet noodle after my time there……
p.s. They aren’t really big on allowing cameras in, probably because not very many people like their picture taken in their swimsuits. All the photos here are stock photos they let me use…….
The next step on my seat-of-the-pants tour of Costa Rica was Nicoya.
Beautiful jungle, teeming with all manner of wildlife, including myself and a group of medical students from Minnesota, on some sort of exchange program. Don’t ask me, I have no idea how they ended up at the same place I did, but they were ready to have some fun….
I had booked this trip online, with no experience or advance information, and hoped that I had found the best zip-line operation I could. I wasn’t disappointed! There are 25 zip-lines, traveling nearly 2 miles in the air, and eleven of the cables went over waterfalls.
The zip line tour was an all in one operation. Adventure Park Hotel Vista Golfo, includes the hotel, restaurant, and zip line tour all run by the same folks. I arrived about 5 pm, and my room was waiting for me, the restaurant was open, and the sodas and beer cold. It was actually the first time I’ve seen a glass Coca-Cola bottle in a very long time.The menu in the restaurant was varied, with everything from barbecued steak to typical Costa Rican fare. I decided to try the arroz com camarones, rice and shrimp, to see if it was as good here as back in San Jose. It was…..
Everything was run right to the second, from dinner, to breakfast, to loading the bus to get to the zip lines, to our return time. I shouldn’t have been surprised, as the kind and efficient folks running this establishment are Germans. The whole place ran like a fine Black Forest Cuckoo clock. And the cuckoo’s? That was us, the collection of folks wanting to slide around the forest on cables, with our gloved hand being our only brake. Here’s a sample….
That was about a quarter mile…. fun, Huh???
All in all, it was a great time. Fun, safe, good food, and great people. And, yes, there were lizards in the shower…….
Next stop, Baldi Hot Springs, near Mount Arenal, the local volcano.
The day is warm, the sky blue, water green, and the iguanas are all over the road. Must be Tamarindo!
I got to Tamarindo to find that I need to go on a ten mile detour to get to Playa Grande where the PGSC is. (Playa Grande Surf Club) After a few trips back and forth, I finally found the right beach. First thing on my checklist for the next trip? GPS….
After the surf, I headed to my hotel in Tamarindo.
Hotel Flores, off the main drag, Tamarindo
The Hotel Flores. Great little operation, good air-conditioning, clean, roomy, and the only hotel I stayed in that didn’t have any lizards. It’s off the main drag, so you don’t have to listen to the nightlife in downtown Tamarindo. It goes on most of the night.
Long story short, Tamarindo is a fun town, lots to do, and a surfers paradise. Lots of shopping in Tamarindo, shop till you drop type shopping. If you like nightlife, its a GREAT town. Prices were about what I expected, it is a tourist town, and there’s always haggling to be done. And, if you go in the beginning of June, like I did, kind of off-season, everything was discounted, or buy 2 get one free.
Having said that, I wouldn’t really call it a place for a “Family” vacation. Keep heading down the road to Tamarindo proper. Here there were too many “local entrepreneurs” trying to sell you what you might not want to get caught with. But if you are an adult or couple looking for a great time while in Costa Rica, try Playa Tamarindo, it may be just what you’re looking for.
It just seems to get longer and longer with the driving around San Jose. I’ve seen traffic, LOTS of traffic. California Interstates at rush hour traffic. Gridlock, not moving for an hour traffic. I don’t like it, but it was at least familiar. But the traffic in San Jose? Insanity. Pure, unadulterated insanity.
It’s not just the thousands of cars, buses, and other four wheeled vehicles of all shapes, sizes and vintages, the real insanity is the 2 wheeled transportation. Motorcycles, (I’m being generous with that description), mopeds, bicycles, and anything else that will move, are the real crazies….
In the middle of a tropical downpour, on the Pan American highway, I saw a 125 cc dirt bike, with 3 people, 4 suitcases, and at least a dozen garbage bags filled with who knows what, piled and bungee corded on all over the place. Then, as if that wasn’t enough, the whole contraption had a huge sheet of clear plastic covering everything, just barely off the pavement. Did I mention that it was passing cars and trucks, and weaving in and out of traffic? Too much for my poor brain…
Generally, the traffic in San Jose was the worst, and it really didn’t die down much at any time of the day. The highways, once away from San Jose, weren’t too bad, (except for the 2 wheelers), other than the passing habits of anybody that didn’t want to wait for a passing lane. I got used to it, even began to participate, after spending a few hours driving with these maniacs. I followed the semi’s, and at first, I didn’t mind following the trucks and passing when they passed. That was on the road to Tamarindo. Not too many hills, not too many curves. After leaving Tamarindo, however, the road to Nicoya was a little more twisty, That was when I first followed a semi around a blind curve going over a hill, passing another semi all the way. I decided that unless the truck I followed hit another semi, that was loaded heavier than he was, I could get back in my lane in time to miss most of the fireworks! What a way to travel……
Having said all this, I have to say that even with all the looneys, unsafe vehicles, and unsafe driving, I never saw an accident. Not even the remains of one on the side of the road. Oh, did I mention I put over 1600 miles on my rental car? And I never even saw an accident. No matter how bad it got, they were used to it, they adapted, and everybody survived. Incredible……..
After wandering around, unpacking, checking my wifi, and settling in, it was time to test the local fare.
Having never been to Costa Rica before, I wanted to try the most authentic meal I could find. I went to the restaurant, Las Planchas Restaurant & Grill, which is part of the hotel, and was met by a cheerful, friendly girl who spoke English better than I speak Spanish…..The restaurant was exactly like the rest of the Hotel, spacious, airy, open windows, with beautiful flowers and plants outside. At 5:15 I was the only person there, so I took a seat by the window and browsed the menu.
There are many different dishes, from barbecue and grilled pork, shrimp, beef, and fish, to the more traditional fare that I was itching to taste. On the menu the section was listed as Comida Tipica. Typical fare. I could smell the spices and the smell of slow grilled meats coming from the kitchen , like delicious rivers oozing out across the breeze. I asked the waitress, Maria, what the most typical Costa Rican food on the menu is. The thing most likely to be eaten in any given home. She pointed to the Arroz con Pollo. Chicken with rice. But this isn’t like anything I’ve had back in the US. The rice was cooked perfectly, then panfried with the chicken. Spices, tomatoes, peppers, onions, corn, peas, and a couple of things I couldn’t identify were all stirred up together, with a LOT of chicken. The french fries were freshly hand cut, and fried perfectly, crunchy on the outside, firm on the inside. This was a full meal, I assure you. No touristy dainty “try our food” small plates at this restaurant. Two could share this plate. It was on an oversized plate, and I couldn’t finish it. For those of you who don’t know me, I’m 6 feet 2 inches and 230 pounds. I don’t find a lot of meals I can’t finish, but after eating for 30 minutes, here I did. Everything was wonderful and I took my time. The setting, the smells, the food, the staff, everything combined to make this a memorable experience, and I will tell you one thing for sure. When I come back to Costa Rica, I’ll be staying here again!
So, after changing some money, (yes I made that mistake too…) and getting my rental car, a full size SUV, I headed out to find my hotel. I stayed the first night at the Hotel Aeropuerto. The place is amazing! If you are looking to find some REAL Costa Rica, not just a Holiday inn with a banana tree in the yard, I highly recommend the Airport Hotel. It’s not the easiest place to find, I’ll admit it. I drove past it twice before I realized where it was. It is in Alajuelo, and while I don’t know the crime statistics here, I would say that this is not the best neighborhood. Having said that though, when I pulled in, there was a gate blocking the driveway. The guard at the gate checked my reservation, and handed me a small plastic parking pass. It’s not to park, its for getting out. Apparently at one time there was a car stolen from here. That won’t happen again. I was told not to leave the pass in the car, to take it with me. My car would not be allowed to leave without it. A novel approach!!!
Once I got into the hotel, I was pleasantly amazed. Being the tropics, it rains. A lot. instead of trying to keep all the water out, the hotel lives with it, as its friendly neighbor. The floors are tile. The walls in the lobby are open, with a lofted ceiling. The people are VERY friendly. Everything was a wonderful surprise after my initial shock at the gate. The rooms are large, airy, air-conditioned, and comfortable. Right outside my window are a huge mango tree, and several banana or plantain tree. To tell you the truth, I don’t know the difference, but it was nice to have such a beautiful reminder that I’m in the tropics!
Next time, the restaurant at the Hotel Aeropuerto….
Well, after what seemed like, and actually was, one hell of a long trip, I’m finally here. I wouldn’t advise anybody doing the trip from the Pacific Northwest to Costa Rica the same way I did unless you can sleep anywhere. Over 19 hours, more then half in airports, waiting for the connection. I’f I’d driven to Portland, I could have been here in 9. File that under things to remember……
Not completely used to the idea of Tico time. I expected to get my rental car at the airport, or at least be taken right to it. Once again, I have to remember that I’m not in the land of the Superstore. It took nearly half an hour to get to the office, and then found out that the insurance policy I bought won’t cover liability, only damage to the car itself. Since Costa Rica law requires liability insurance, and if you get in a wreck, they can, and sometimes do, refrain from letting you leave the country until it is completely taken care of, you really should pay whatever your insurance company wants to extend your coverage. I wish I did. My $205 dollar rental that seemed such a great deal turned into a $467 dollar deal. Not such a great deal anymore. But….if that is the worst thing that happens on this trip, I’m Golden!!!
By the way, don’t exchange your gringo dollars for colones at the airport money changers shops. The exchange rate when I arrived was 559 colones per dollar, and the airport shops are paying no more than 480 colones per dollar. Quite a racket!
Next time I’ll tell you about a great out of the way hotel and restaurant close to the airport…….